Hamburger steak, anyone?
November 4th, 2009 by Wanda AdamsA few nights ago, feeling unwell and with no time to cook, I bought a hamburger steak takeout from a grocery store deli for our dinner.
Oh, so wrong. The burgers were overly thick and dry and pretty much tasteless. They were on those super-smooth mashed potatoes that you know are made from dehydrated product (they taste kind of chemical?). And the serving of gravy was — to say the least — manini.
Got me thinking about what a hamburger steak SHOULD be. (And this is a very Hawai'i thing, by the way. I don't recall ever seeing such a thing on a Mainland menu. Over there, a burger is on a bun. And it's not a steak.)
A hamburger steak should be a very well seasoned (salt and pepper, maybe garlic powder, maybe some minced onions or green onions), flat, thinnish pattie of high-fat ground beef, very quickly and lightly fried, then served over white rice and smothered in brown gravy (hopefully housemade but that's mostly too much to ask these days; one can only hope that they use a good brand of shortcut gravy product). It should be served, as the French say, a la minute, within minutes of being fried. Done correctly it is a thing of beauty and a joy forever. Done wrong, it's dreck.
Drives me nuts that many restaurants don't season the meat in hamburgers, hamburger steak and other ground meat dishes properly. You have to use a liberal hand, then fry a little bit of meat and taste it to see if it's seasoned enough. Then adjust. Most people don't seem to take this step.
Also, we've become so obsessed with fat in this country that we are trying to use very, very lowfat beef to make products, such as hamburger steak, which need the richness and moisture that fat brings. It's really hard to make a good lowfat burger. My advice: You want lowfat? Eat fish. Or beans. Or legumes. Or tofu. Or (God help us) skinless chicken breast (but that's another column).
But if you want to treat yourself to a hamburger steak a few times a year, get or make a good one, eat a smaller portion and enjoy the heck out of it.
Got any nominees for the best hamburger steak around? Love to hear about them because now I'm 'ono for a good one.
November 4th, 2009 at 8:03 am
The best hamburger steak I've come across is from Henry Loui's in Mapunapuna. Cooked to a medium perfection with some crispy sauteed onions atop the mound of yummy gravy. Served with rice or mashed potatoes and a side of steamed vegies. Oh boy, time for a nap.
November 4th, 2009 at 11:43 am
Several come to mind. I like Kakaako Kitchen's and I remember liking Shige's (though I haven't been there in years). But my current favorite is the sizzling hamburger steak at Alonzo's at the Mililani golf course restaurant. I'm happy I live in Mililani!
November 4th, 2009 at 11:55 am
I've heard Local Boy's on Democrat St. and Meg's Drive-In on Waiakamilo Rd. are ono-licious.
(I like my homemade ones!)
November 4th, 2009 at 2:38 pm
I used to love the hamburger steak plate at the long gone Bakery Kapiolani on S. King Street where Golden Duck is now and across from the departed Wisteria. They had a really good coffee shop operation along with their baked products, lots of well prepared hot meals served there. Like Like Drive In has a decent one as does Rainbow Drive In.
November 4th, 2009 at 3:03 pm
Pineapple Room has a great hamburger steak... with a rich demi-glace like gravy and portabello mushrooms. It is delish!
November 4th, 2009 at 3:10 pm
next time buy the ground beef and cook it home easy !
November 4th, 2009 at 7:53 pm
Re:
"(And this is a very Hawai'i thing, by the way. I don't recall ever seeing such a thing on a Mainland menu. Over there, a burger is on a bun. And it's not a steak.)"
Next time you're on the mainland, look for 'Salisbury Steak'.
Or google it.
Doug
November 4th, 2009 at 9:49 pm
yes next time buy your ground beef ...then throw it in oven make meatloaf ..
November 5th, 2009 at 6:32 am
Re:
"(And this is a very Hawai'i thing, by the way. I don't recall ever seeing such a thing on a Mainland menu. Over there, a burger is on a bun. And it's not a steak.)"
Again, Wanda, Hamburger steak is available here in Southern California but (you are right) not at a regular restaurant. You have to go to a Japanese restaurant that does western style foods. It usually comes with rice and demi-glace and veggies. But the origin of hamburger steak is in Japan. They serve it with fried egg and demi-glace and rice on the side. Does that remind you of loco-moco?
November 5th, 2009 at 9:10 am
Displaced kama'aina now living in Columbus, Ga. You can get a pretty good hamburger steak at Country's Barbecue here, unfortunately, they don't serve it with rice...two sides and a choice of cornbread or white bread. Hand shaped ground beef served smothered in onions and brown gravy. But Country's is the only place I have ever been outside of Hawaii that serves hamburger steak.
November 5th, 2009 at 11:55 am
The hamburger steak at Shige's in Wahiawa is very good. Sometimes the gravy can be a bit too salty but the grilled onions on top is a very nice touch.
November 15th, 2009 at 8:40 am
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November 20th, 2009 at 10:57 pm
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November 26th, 2009 at 1:50 pm
C& G's at 212 Merchant St., has the best hamburger plate lunch downtown . They make gravy from scratch, with turkey bones etc. and grind their own beef - a special flavorful cut of meat. They use a special tender, flavorful cut for their beef stew too. When My Mom was getting Radiation Therapy, we'd drive there from Queen's.
The best ground beef is at Don Quijotie, the Wagyu from Australia. Only $4.99 lb. It has a real "beefy" flavor, and makes other beef taste like nothing. Xavier & I eat it raw, but the rest of the family likes it cooked.